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<h1><a href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com">Slope Erosion Control</a></h1>
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<h2 class="posttitle"><a href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/erosion-hillsides" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent link to Erosion of Hillsides">Erosion of Hillsides</a></h2>
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Posted by admin on January 6, 2011 at 4:42 pm </p>
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</div><p>The definition of erosion is the gradual destruction or reduction and weakening of something. No one wants their land to be gradually destroyed or weakened, so solutions must be found to fight the constant battle the wind and rain wage against us. One of the places erosion is the biggest problem is on hills. Erosion control products such as jute nets and erosion control blankets can be placed on hills to help us fight back against nature and prevent erosion long enough for plants to stabilize the hill side. After a product like these have been installed the next step is planting the plants that will take over the job of erosion control long term.</p>
<p>Jute netting is a biodegradable form of netting. This netting is placed over hills that do not have vegetation growing on them. After jute netting has been placed seeds can be planted on the hillside. The jute netting now serves multiple purposes. It keeps the soil and seeds from washing or blowing way and stores heat while providing partial shade for the seeds. Given these optimal conditions the seeds quickly sprout and grow up though the jute nets. At this point the plants and their roots will stop erosion of the hill and the jute netting simply biodegrades away.</p>
<p>Erosion control blankets are a tight netting made of straw, straw and coconut fiber, or coconut fiber. They are safe for wild life as the netting they are made of has independently floating strands which are hard for animals to get caught in. Erosion control blankets made of straw can last six months before biodegrading and the ones made of pure coconut fiber can last two years. Depending on the steepness of the hill in question erosion control blankets offer the time needed for plants to become well established on the hill side before the blankets biodegrade away.</p>
<p>Grass seeds are a good fast option to plant over jute netting or erosion control blankets. Grass roots will grow quickly providing a quick natural form of erosion control. However, for long term erosion control no other plant will stabilize a hill side like trees with big sturdy roots. Some shrubs and other plants work well also. Keep in mind when picking what plants to put on your slope that they should have roots of varying depth with roots growing deep, shallow and at the surface. Your landscaper will be able to tell you what slower growing plants work best to make sure erosion never becomes a problem again in the future.</p>
<p>The erosion of our hill sides can be a daunting problem. Jute netting and erosion control blankets are two easy and affordable solutions for it though. After one of these products is placed on a hill side they effectively stop erosion. Planting grass seeds over them will stop erosion when they biodegrade away. With the proper fallow up of plants with larger roots systems the hill side can become much more stable and less likely to erode again.</p>
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<h2 class="posttitle"><a href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/erosion-control-blankets" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent link to Erosion Control Blankets">Erosion Control Blankets</a></h2>
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Posted by admin on November 17, 2010 at 9:52 am </p>
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<h2>One of the best and most common erosion control products that is used is an Erosion Control Blanket.</h2>
<p><a onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003401B24?ie=UTF8&tag=slope-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003401B24');" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003401B24?ie=UTF8&tag=slope-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003401B24"><img src="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/erosion-control-blanket.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=slope-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B003401B24" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></p>
<p>Erosion Control Blankets were invented in the early 60`s, and is a great way to stabilize soil during seed germination in a reinforced mulch setting. The easiest way to understand what an erosion control blanket is to think of a blanket that is made out of mulch (wood, straw, plastic) sewn together in between a couple of polypropylene nets. The nets and threads hold the mulch and rest of the blankets together. The blankets are then rolled out and pinned to the ground with a variety of types of soil fasteners. The soil is prepared and seeds are planted, after that point the blankets are rolled out and pinned to the hill or slope.</p>
<div>Where should you use erosion control blankets?</div>
<p>Erosion Control Blankets should be used in areas where some flow of water is to be expected throughout a small duration, or in the case that you do not want to hydroseed. Either because of budget concerns or space limitations.</p>
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<h2 class="posttitle"><a href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/erosion-control-plantsground-covers" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent link to Erosion Control Plants(ground covers)">Erosion Control Plants(ground covers)</a></h2>
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Posted by admin on April 26, 2010 at 10:31 am </p>
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<p>Here is a link to a<a onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/ecea663efcplfq7cr5zmz5o05t.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=SLOPEEROSION');" href="http://ecea663efcplfq7cr5zmz5o05t.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=SLOPEEROSION" target="_top"> DIY resource for Landscaping</a>!</p>
<p>Here is a great list of plants for erosion control at your home. Though there are much more than just these plants, these ones are tried and true. These plants tend to control soil erosion. Next week we will have another post about plants that help to control other parts of the eroding hilside!</p>
<p>Some of the best erosion control plants include:</p>
<p>GROUND COVERING PLANTS (to keep the surface soil in place)</p>
<ul>
<li>Achillea millefolium, also known as Yarrow needs full sun or part shade. <a onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/downloads/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/achillea-millefolium.jpg');" href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/achillea-millefolium.jpg"><img title="achillea-millefolium" src="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/achillea-millefolium-150x150.jpg" alt="Achillea-Millefolium, yarrow, gordaldo, nosebleed plant, old man's pepper, devil's nettle, sanguinary" width="150" height="150" /></a></li>
<li>Baccharis pilularis ‘Twin Peaks’ or ‘Pigeon Point’, Dwarf Coyote Brush W<a onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/downloads/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/baccharis-pilularis.jpg');" href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/baccharis-pilularis.jpg"><img title="baccharis-pilularis" src="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/baccharis-pilularis-150x150.jpg" alt="baccharis-pilularis, great for soil erosion control" width="150" height="150" /></a></li>
<li>Ceanothus griseus horizontalis ‘Yankee Point’ B<a onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/downloads/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/ceanothus-griseus-horizontalis.jpg');" href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/ceanothus-griseus-horizontalis.jpg"><img title="ceanothus-griseus-horizontalis" src="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/ceanothus-griseus-horizontalis-150x150.jpg" alt="Yankee Point" width="150" height="150" /></a></li>
<li>Any of the Grasses that have a very tough and fibrous root system(i.e. turfgrass)<a onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/downloads/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/turfgrass.jpg');" href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/turfgrass.jpg"><img title="turfgrass" src="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/turfgrass-150x150.jpg" alt="Turfgrass, this has a fibrous root system" width="150" height="150" /></a></li>
<li>The Monkey Flower is great also.<a onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/downloads/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/monkey-flower.jpg');" href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/monkey-flower.jpg"><img title="monkey-flower" src="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/monkey-flower-150x150.jpg" alt="Monkey flower is great for slope erosion control" width="150" height="150" /></a></li>
<li>Epilobium canum and E. canum latifolia Also called the California Fuchsia, sometimes requires shade, depending on the color, this is great if you have shady hill that is having erosion problems.</li>
</ul>
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<span class="permalink">Archived under <a href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/category/c-erosion-control" title="View all posts in Erosion Control" rel="category tag">Erosion Control</a></span>
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<div class="post" id="post-70">
<h2 class="posttitle"><a href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/soil-erosion" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent link to Soil Erosion">Soil Erosion</a></h2>
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Posted by admin on March 30, 2010 at 3:47 pm </p>
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<p>About Soil Erosion.</p>
<p>Before the construction of any building site whether it be a public assignment or a residential assignment, or even placing pavers in your backyard, there should be an Erosion Control Program in place. Most programs are very basic; they normally required actions like removing existing concrete from the ground, removing vegetation, landslides, and most commonly when existing soil is tampered with. These types of programs help with the prevention of soil erosion.</p>
<p>Advantages of Controlling Erosion</p>
<p>Keeps the water supplies pure.<br />
Keeps the building site safe and free of dangerous hazards.<br />
Improves your harvest supply.<br />
Helps soil contain its important nutrients.<br />
EROSION PREVENTIONS</p>
<p>Definition of Erosion: the breaking down of rocks or soil by physical break down, chemicals, or caused by nature. Examples: wind, rain, water, or ice.</p>
<p>In general erosion is caused naturally. Other times it is caused by builders or homeowners. Nowadays there are many products on the market to assist with the problem.</p>
<p>Erosion Control Blankets</p>
<p>Many types of blankets are available today to assist with erosion control. The blankets and mats are placed onto the affected area. They must be tight and securely placed to be most effective. The blankets can be used to fix harsh problems that may cause erosion, such as heavy rainfall, snow, and ice.</p>
<p>Retaining Walls</p>
<p>Homeowners can prevent erosion by building retaining walls. In cases where the shorelines are flooded with water causing erosion to occur, large cement pavers can be constructed as a retaining wall to prevent the water from traveling onwards, which will prevent erosion from happening.</p>
<p>Large boulder type rocks, or large concrete pavers, can also be used, to stop erosion on the shorelines.</p>
<p>Residue Covers</p>
<p>Erosion normally begins once water has deposited minute soil atoms and other soil collectives. Rainfall is the most common cause. A residue cover can be known as the most successful and most cost effective source of demolishing erosion.</p>
<p>The main purpose of a residue cover is to provide a protective shield for the surface of the soil. So when any impact hits, like raindrops, water, or ice, the residue cover prevents water from depositing these soil collectives. They also help divert rainfall in other directions away from the soil, and into drains etc.</p>
<p>GRASS AND MULCH</p>
<p>Mulch</p>
<p>Mulch is a reasonably priced material. It is also very affective and improves erosion control just by applying a simple layer.</p>
<p>Just one layer of mulch is enough to protect the soil, especially when heavy rainfall occurs. Mulch protects the soil by helping it hold its needed moisture.</p>
<p>NOTE: it is mostly recommended that you seek manufactures instruction on which mulch is best for your soil.</p>
<p>Grass</p>
<p>Grass is another option for erosion control. However, grass will only control erosion for the short-term. Grass can be placed on to the eroded area, where it will then grow over, covering the surface, and providing temporary control.</p>
<p>The grassed area could even be turned into a nice simple garden, by adding a few plants, and shrubs. There are also many feeding products like seeds and plant food that will help the plants to grow. A paved border around the garden will also help create a nice surrounding. Concrete Pavers, Brick Pavers etc are highly recommended.</p>
<p>Here is a link to a few of the tools that I purchased:<br />
<a onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%3Fie%3DUTF8%26search-alias%3Dtools%26field-brandtextbin%3DA.M.%2520Leonard&tag=slope-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325');" href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%3Fie%3DUTF8%26search-alias%3Dtools%26field-brandtextbin%3DA.M.%2520Leonard&tag=slope-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325">Tools for Controlling Erosion – Amazon.com</a><img style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=slope-20&l=ur2&o=1" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" /></p>
<p>Good Luck – Joe Richy</p>
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<div class="post" id="post-65">
<h2 class="posttitle"><a href="http://slopeerosioncontrol.com/hillside-control-techniques" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent link to Hillside Control Techniques">Hillside Control Techniques</a></h2>
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Posted by admin on March 23, 2010 at 4:57 pm </p>
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<p><strong>INNOVATIVE METHODS OF TERRACING.</strong> I made a special trip to Haiti about a year ago to meet Victor Wynne and to see his interesting small farm in the mountains. After walking through eroded hillsides and unimpressive “fields,” we suddenly came to a beautiful productive area that seemed like the Garden of Eden by contrast. Victor has experimented with better methods of terracing for some time, combining his training as an engineer and his love of plants. He has at least three distinct systems. He has written a description of one to share with our network, which follows.</p>
<p>“There can be no viable long-term agricultural cropping or reforestation on hillside or mountain slopes, unless these slopes are first protected from soil erosion in heavy rainfalls. Protective measures to conserve soil must come first. The scheme which we have found to be entirely satisfactory consists not of terracing, but of digging trenches along level contours and using the material from the trenches to form elevated ridges for tree planting. The ridges are always made at right angles to the level contours. The work must always commence at a drainage divide and proceed downward. Otherwise runoff from above may destroy your work.<br />
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“The accompanying contour map of a section of hilly terrain illustrates the scheme. The level contours, shown by dashed lines, are laid out so that there is a 1.5 meter difference in elevation. This has been found to be a satisfactory spacing on most slopes for intercepting and temporarily holding runoff from heavy rains. In practice there is no need to make a map. A few level lines are staked out on the ground, starting just below the hill summit, at the stated 1.5 meter vertical elevation difference between them. A small inexpensive line-level hung onto a nylon string provides an easy way of laying out these level lines. With taller stakes readily visible, one chooses and marks the ridge lines roughly perpendicular to the direction of the trenches and spaced six or seven meters apart. This rather close spacing eliminates the necessity of any hauling of excavated ditch material, as all can be thrown by shovel from trenches to ridges. The ridges are represented on our contour map by the dotted lines. Trenches should be at least 30 cm in depth, and a minimum of 60 cm wide, with a level bottom. Of course, where the ridges are to be the trenches need not be dug out. Thus the trenches consist of short sections of ditch. Very careful leveling is less important than it would be for a long extended ditch.</p>
<p>“The hillside is now ready for agroforestry plantings. In general the ridges will be reserved for tree planting because of the greater soil depth. The rectangular plots between ridges and ditches can be used for annual cash or subsistence crops.” He is having great success with Mimosa scabrella trees. This species might be the higher altitude equivalent of the leucaena. It is dying out where the roots encounter limestone. These trees are planted on the ridges with Andean blackberry plants growing on wires strung between the trees. He likes this berry because it produces year round. The juice he served from the berry was outstanding. Victor says it will only grow at higher elevations, over 4000 feet.</p>
<p>“Well, that is all there is to it. Simple isn’t it?–but fully effective. So let’s save our mountain soils!” For his complete description, plus my own description of two other distinctive methods he has been using, write for our Technical Note “Terracing on the Wynne Farm in Haiti.” </p>
<p><strong>SALT PROJECT (SLOPING AGRICULTURAL LAND TECHNOLOGY). </strong>The Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center in the Philippines has done excellent work with farming sloping land. Harold Watson (the director), Ken Turner, and Peace Corps volunteer Joseph Profitt sent us a description of the technique. SALT has been used at the center since 1979. Its purpose is to protect hilly soil from erosion and to provide nutrients for plants.</p>
<p>First lay out the land in contour lines using an A-frame (see next article). Space the contour lines about 4-6 meters apart. Next plow and harrow a 1 meter band along each contour until prepared for planting. Plant two rows of Leucaena leucocephala (or other species) on each band, during the rainy season, in furrows 0.5 meters apart and about 2.5 cm deep. If a large tree or stone is directly on the contour line, plant the double row around it, one row above and one below the obstacle. Soak the seed overnight in water to speed germination. [Ed: Many people place seeds in hot water then allow to soak without further heating over night.] Discard any seeds that float because they will not germinate. Plant seeds quite densely, about 1 cm apart; cover with fine soil and press down firmly. After germination, replant any spaces in the rows. Weed the seedlings until they are well established. To allow fast growth, seedlings can be gradually thinned out (every other tree) over a 3-4 year period. When the trees are large the final spacing should be 4-8 inches. This will require about 20 kilograms of seed per hectare, depending on the distance between the contour lines.</p>
<p>The leucaena can be left to grow until it becomes 4-5 meters high, at which time it will form a shade which will kill the grasses and eliminate the need for hand cutting to prepare for cultivation of the soil. If you must cultivate the land to plant crops in the 4-6 meter wide strips between the rows before the trees reach this height, you must plow alternately. In other words, one strip is plowed, the strip between the next higher two bands is left untouched, the next is plowed, etc. The unplowed strips will help hold soil that may wash down from above. When the leucaena is fully grown you can cultivate in every strip. Permanent crops such as coffee, bananas, and citrus can be set out at the same time as the leucaena seeds. The soil should not be plowed for these crops and only ring weeding should be used until the leucaena trees are large enough to hold the soil. Once a month cut down the continuously growing trees, but leave at least one meter of the stem. Pile the leaves and twigs at the base of your crops. This will provide both a mulch and nutrients. As you continue farming the land, gather excess straw, stalks, twigs, branches, leaves, rocks, and stones and pile them at the base of the trees on the uphill side as an erosion barrier. Over the years this will build up strong, permanent, naturally green and beautiful terraces–which will anchor your precious soil in its right place.</p>
<p>Every third strip is planted to a permanent crop such as fruit trees. The two intervening strips are planted to field crops like corn or cassava. The field crops should be rotated. For example, pineapple might be planted after beans have been harvested. If you want more information on this technique, contact ECHO for the 10-page illustrated Technical Note. The Center has many other demonstrations which integrate forestry, forages, animals, and home gardening techniques. They also sell seed of several species. Contact Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center, P.O. Box 94, Davao City 8000, PHILIPPINES. [The fertilizer and mulch benefits of SALT are so great that a similar system is used even on flat land where erosion is not a problem. There it is called alley cropping. </p>
<p><strong>HOW TO MAKE AND USE AN A-FRAME.</strong> The A-frame is an accurate and extremely simple tool for measuring and marking level contours on a hillside field. You will need two straight and sturdy stakes or boards about 2 meters long and a third about 1 meter long, 3 nails, a string, and either a rock or bottle filled with rocks. A-frames are alongside the hoe and machete as essential tools on many mountain farms for preserving mountain soils.</p>
<p>Nail the two long boards together at one end with a single nail. Leave the nail sticking out about half a centimeter so the string can be tied to it. Next nail the shorter board to the other two to make an "A", as shown in the drawing. Tie the string onto the nail and hang the plumb at the other end of the string so that it will swing freely, but below the horizontal board.</p>
<p>Next you need to find where the string will be touching the horizontal board when the two ends are on level ground. If you are certain that you have a level spot you can just make the mark where the string is resting. Rotate the A-frame 180 degrees and set it back on exactly the same spot. If the string is not on the same mark the location was not level. A method for any terrain is to drive two stakes about 10 centimeters wide into the ground, spaced so you can hold the A-frame with one leg on each stake. Mark where the plumb line touches the cross member, then rotate the frame 180 degrees and repeat. Place a large mark exactly half way between the two marks. This should be where the plumb line will touch the cross member when it is on level ground. To double check, drive the higher stake lower until the plumb line touches the mark, indicating that the frame is level. At this point you can rotate the frame 180 degrees and the plumb line will still contact the same mark.</p>
<p>To mark out a contour, place a stake into the ground at the starting point and put one leg of the A-frame next to the stake, on the uphill side. Locate the other leg of the A-frame where the plumb line crosses the level mark, then drive a stake by the leg, on the downhill side. This becomes the new starting stake. Continue in this way across the hillside. [This is based on a verbal description by Larry Sell in Honduras.]</p>
<p>There is nothing new under the sun. Someone sent us the book Ramesses the Great about ancient Egyptian civilizations. On page 140 is a picture of an A-frame. The caption said it is made from wood and limestone and was one of the tools selected for burial in the tomb of “the Servant in the Place of Truth Sennedjem.”<br />
Return to CONTENTS.</p>
<p>SEMBRADORES DE ESPERANZA: CONSERVAR PARA CULTIVAR Y VIVIR, by Monika Hesse-Rodriguez. 252 pages, Spanish only. This exceptionally well-illustrated book arose from the experiences of agricultural transformation in mountainous southern Honduras. It details the practical techniques implemented to promote soil conservation in a community-oriented development program.</p>
<p>The author advocates a cautious and flexible approach to agricultural change, and the reader is constantly reminded that a successful method is one which works for an individual farmer in the family field. For that reason, the author presents many alternatives and ideas for site-specific adaptation. The introduction to the techniques used to conserve soil on sloping land, covers the theory, methods, advantages, and drawbacks of the following areas: the construction and multiple uses of an A-frame, many forms of terracing, vermiculture, agroforestry, green manures, low-tillage systems, intercropping, living fences, and windbreaks.</p>
<p>This book will be useful to community leaders and extension agents, who can benefit both from the insights into implementing agricultural change in a rural community as well as the various techniques discussed. The book constantly references the farmers’ own experience, complete with testimonies from individuals about the use of each technique in his or her own field, clear photographs of over 30 unique applications of the conservation measures in farmers’ plots, and questions for reflection in a group training course context. The reader can visualize the end results through numerous line drawings and photos throughout the text. The format would seem to be easily adapted for teaching and extension. The many illustrations make this a great book for non-Spanish speakers who want to work on their agricultural vocabulary.</p>
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<p>The Deltalok System, the only permanent soft armored solution for green vegetated retaining walls, slopes, shoreline and streambank stabilization and erosion control.</p>
<p>The Deltalok System is the only system that provides a vegetated face for slopes and walls in erosion control, slope repair, bank protection and earth retention applications. The Deltalok System is the only system of it’s kind that offers the strength of stone and concrete with the natural beauty (and environmental benefits) of a grassy bank, a field of flowers or even a forest scape.</p>
<p>The Deltalok System evolves bag work construction practices by combining an innovative and patented interlocking method with a vegetation sustainable GTX soil bag. </p>
<p>The Deltalok Connector is placed between sand/soil filled Deltalok GTX bags to dramatically increase the sheer strength of the bag structure. The result is an interlocking soil mass that promotes and sustains vegetation. </p>
<p>The connector also provides a positive mechanical connection to geogrid in the construction of steep slopes and retaining wall structures where needed. </p>
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